Pure silk fabrics are classified into 15 major categories based on fabric structure, warp and weft combinations, processing techniques, and the visual appearance of the fabric surface. With the exception of *Sha* (gauze), *Luo* (leno), and *Rong* (pile fabrics)-where the classification is independent of the distinction between pattern and ground structures-the other categories are classified primarily based on their ground structure. Fabrics in each category can feature either a plain finish (degummed, bleached, or dyed) or a patterned finish (woven or printed).
1.Fang (Plain-woven silk): Utilizes a plain weave and is produced via raw-weaving or semi-yarn-dyed processes; the warp and weft yarns generally have little to no twist, resulting in a relatively flat, crisp surface. Its defining characteristics are a lightweight yet durable and resilient texture.
Zhou (Crêpe): Utilizes a plain weave or other structures; features highly twisted warp and/or weft yarns, resulting in a fabric with a distinct crinkled texture and elasticity.
3. Duan (Satin): Utilizes a satin weave, resulting in a fabric with a smooth, lustrous surface.
4. Ling (Twill silk): Utilizes a twill weave or a variation thereof, resulting in a fabric with a distinct diagonal pattern on the surface.
5. Sha (Gauze): A fabric utilizing a gauze weave-either wholly or in part-formed by twisting "A" and "B" warp yarns around each other at intervals between weft yarns.
6.Luo (Gauze): A fabric utilizing the *Luo* weave (either wholly or in part), formed by twisting warp threads (designated A and B) around odd-numbered weft threads (spaced at intervals of one or three-plus threads); essentially, a gauze-like fabric.
7.Rong (Velvet/Pile fabric): A fabric utilizing the pile weave throughout, characterized by a surface of raised pile or loops.
8. Jin (Brocade): A yarn-dyed jacquard fabric utilizing satin or twill weaves, featuring intricate, colorful, and brilliant patterns.
9. Xiao (Sheer silk): A lightweight, sheer, and porous fabric utilizing plain or gauze-like weaves.
10. Ni (Wool-like fabric): A fabric utilizing various weaves and relatively coarse warp and weft yarns, characterized by a substantial texture and a wool-like feel.
11. Ge (Ribbed silk/Crepe-like fabric): A fabric utilizing plain, twill, or derivative weaves; characterized by a dense warp and sparse weft, fine warp and coarse weft yarns, a substantial texture, and a surface featuring transverse ribs.
12. Ti (Coarse silk/Cotton-silk blend): A fabric utilizing a plain weave, with filament silk as the warp and cotton or other yarns as the weft, resulting in a relatively coarse and thick texture.
13.Juan (Fine Silk): A fabric with a fine, smooth, and crisp texture, typically produced using a plain weave.
14. Chou (Silk Fabric): A fabric characterized by a tight interlacing of warp and weft threads, produced using a plain weave or a variation thereof.
15. Ke (Slit Tapestry/Kesi): A specialized silk fabric-featuring plain weave or other structures-created using the "continuous warp and discontinuous (or returning) weft" technique.
